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a nomad in the land of nizwa

~ an American English teacher in Oman

a nomad in the land of nizwa

Category Archives: Muscat

in search of the perfect suitcase combo & dinner at shang thai

21 Friday Jun 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Middle East, Muscat, Oman, Shang Thai

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

Muscat, Oman

Friday, June 21:  After my debacle last September in Greece, where I got to Athens but my suitcase didn’t show up for two days, I decided I would never again travel without a carry-on bag.  I’m leaving in 6 days for a month in Spain and Portugal, and I determined that I would take only one suitcase.  But as I can no longer ignore the need for a carry-on, I wanted to find the perfect combination.  I have one medium-sized suitcase and ideally I wanted something that would sit on top of that one when I’m walking from metro or train or bus to my hotel and vice versa.  In that ideal situation, the small carry-on would also have rollers and a handle, so that when the medium suitcase is checked, I can just pull the carry-on around in the airport or on board the train, or whatever.

I looked and looked for something last weekend and couldn’t find what I was envisioning.  I would have bought a whole new set if I could find one that was made to fit together, one on top of the other.  But, alas, I couldn’t find my dream combination.  So last week, I bought a small roller carry-on from Carrefour in Muscat and brought it home, where it sat on my guest bed for a week.  Though it was small, it wasn’t small enough to fit on top of my other one; neither was there a way to attach it to the larger one.  During the week, I kept having visions of myself hauling two rolling suitcases through the streets of Barcelona and Toledo and Andalucia and the Algarve and Lisbon, and I didn’t like that vision one bit.  I know what a pain it is when you’re traveling and have to lug around too much stuff.  I don’t want to do that for a whole month!

So this weekend, my dear friend Tahira wants to go to a movie and dinner in Muscat. I tell her I’d love to do that, but I have to deal with this luggage dilemma first.  She says that’ll be fine; whatever I need to do, she’ll come around with me to help sort it out.  She even has a number of suggestions as to where we might look for this perfect combo.

Tahira and I have been working closely together since January.  We’ve both been teaching at the university for nearly two years, but only since January, when we were both teaching Level 2 under a certain coordinator and sitting beside each other in the office, did we develop a friendship.  Now I consider her a very dear friend.  But honestly, today she goes above and beyond the call of duty to help me with this boring problem.  I don’t even have the patience to sort out this kind of problem when it’s MINE, and I have to say if she, or anyone else, had asked me to spend my time dealing with this if it were THEIR problem, I’m not sure I would have agreed to have anything to do with it!

We leave Nizwa at 2:00 in the afternoon and when we get to Muscat, we go first to Sultan Center, a place in Muscat where I have never been.  It’s just like all the big hypermarkets throughout Oman.  No luck.  We sit outside of Costa Coffee in a damp breeze and drink iced coffee.  Then we go to Muscat Grand Mall, where the Bollywood movie we want to see, Raanjhanaa, is playing.  We go to buy tickets, only to find the movie is sold out for tonight.  So now, lucky Tahira and lucky me, we have hours and hours ahead of us to sort out MY luggage dilemma!

At one kiosk, we find exactly the combination I am looking for, but the carry-on bag is too small for my computer.  And the price is exorbitant!  We look in every shop that carries any bags at all.  Finally, at Charles and Keith, I find a large tote bag that will do the trick and I buy it for 32 rials ($83)!  I try to return the carry-on bag I bought at Carrefour last weekend, but as I bought it at the City Center Carrefour, they won’t take it.  It seems we have to trek to Muscat City Center in Seeb.

On our way driving to Muscat City Center, down what we know to be the only main highway in Muscat, the Sultan Qaboos Highway,  Tahira says, “Where are we?”  We recognize the same construction detour that we came across the last time we were in Muscat when we got lost and ended up way west of Seeb.  “What?” I say.  “I have no idea!”  Somehow we are on some unrecognizable highway heading toward Seeb with the new airport construction to our left as we head south!  This is the second time this has happened to us, and we crack up laughing.   I have a theory that it is impossible to get lost in Muscat because there is only one main highway and all roads eventually lead back to that highway.  But for the second time, we are lost in Muscat.  Well, not really lost, just thrown off-track temporarily.  Because in the end, I’m right, you can’t REALLY get lost in Muscat.  We end up arriving from the opposite direction to Muscat City Center.  We’re here and we’re not lost, proving my theory correct. 🙂

When we arrive, it seems every resident of Muscat is there.  There’s a huge traffic jam going into the mall parking lot, where we sit for what seems like forever.  It turns out that every store in City Center is having a sale tonight!  What fun.

There’s a line at the return counter at Carrefour and I stand there trying to return the carry-on for about 20 minutes.  Then as we’re walking out of the mall (sweet relief!), Tahira tells me I should check out the Samsonite store because they’re having a sale.  It’s way at the other end of the mall. We trek down there where I find a good duffel bag that will work perfectly (although it has no rollers) and I settle on that for 54 rials ($140) ~ and that’s ON SALE!  I now have to run to Charles & Keith at this mall to see if I can return the other bag, and they agree to let me.  First I have to run to the car to get it, way at the other end of the mall, fighting my way through hordes of people.  Meanwhile Tahira has taken off to go shopping at all the shops that are having sales!!

Finally, though we left Nizwa at 2:00 this afternoon, we make our way to Shang Thai at the Wave’s Almouj Marina for dinner at around 9:00.  By this time, we’re famished.  A huge Omani family is at center stage, occupying the entire center of the restaurant, seated around a long rectangular table.  At one point they all sing “Happy Birthday” in English to one of the young men sitting at the end of the table.  It’s quite a scene as, for one, it isn’t usual for Omanis to make a big deal out of birthdays.  And to sing “Happy Birthday” in English is also noteworthy.  This is obviously a modern Omani family, dishdashas and abayas notwithstanding.

my dear friend Tahira

my dear friend Tahira

appetizers at Shang Thai

prawn crackers and dip at Shang Thai

The food and atmosphere at this restaurant are fabulous.  We sit in a cushioned booth and the attentive waitress brings us prawn crackers and dip.  We order appetizers for two, including spring rolls, shrimp toast, papaya salad and some kind of pancakes.  I order a citrus mint juice and Tahira orders a ginger tea.  Everything is artistically prepared and delicious.

me at Shang Thai

me at Shang Thai

Tahira

Tahira

me with my citrus mint juice and appetizers

me with my citrus mint juice and appetizers

citrus mint juice

citrus mint juice

Tahira orders Pad Thai with Prawns, beautifully prepared with a netted covering of eggs drizzled on top and cooked.

Pad Thai with Prawns with eggs drizzled and cooked on top in an artistic pattern

Pad Thai with Prawns with eggs drizzled and cooked on top in an artistic pattern

Pad Thai with Prawns

Pad Thai with Prawns

I order Stir-Fried Morning Glory, which is also quite delicious.

Stir-fried morning glory

Stir-fried morning-glory

We have a lovely time, even running into our colleague Mac and his wife Latifa outside the restaurant.  Even though the earlier part of the day was quite “hectic” (Tahira’s oft-used South African word), the evening turns out to be the perfect grand finale.  I will miss Tahira immensely when I leave Oman.  She makes me promise that when I get back to the U.S. and finally get a smart phone, I must download Whatsapp right away so we can chat.

By the time we arrive home in Nizwa, it is midnight.  Thank goodness we have the day off Saturday now, with Oman’s revised weekend schedule, so I can sleep in!  And now I have my Samsonite carry-on, just waiting for the final packing!

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seeking “the essence of Muscat” on a steamy 42 degree day

07 Friday Jun 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Al Alam Palace, Al Khuwair, Al Riyam Park, Crowne Plaza, Middle East, Muscat, Muscat Gate Museum, Oman, Qurum Beach, Ruwi, Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

≈ 28 Comments

Tags

Muscat, Oman, Travel

Friday, June 7:  Today, I meet up with Mario near the Costa Coffee at Qurum Beach.  We plan to go on a photo shoot of Muscat to capture “the essence” of the Sultanate’s capital city.

Qurum Beach is a popular area for both tourists and locals.  The little shopping center near the Intercontinental Hotel is quite a hub of activity, especially Costa Coffee, a hot spot which sits at a strategic people-watching corner overlooking the beach.

ice cream cone in front of Costa Coffee on Qurum Beach

ice cream cone in front of Costa Coffee on Qurum Beach

view of Qurum Beach from the Costa Coffee and mall terrace

view of Qurum Beach from the Costa Coffee and mall terrace

view of Qurum Beach

view of Qurum Beach

Costa Coffee, where people sit to people-watch

Costa Coffee, where people sit to people-watch

a crepe restaurant

a crepe restaurant

wall of crepe restaurant

wall of crepe restaurant

We end up capturing only a few icons of Muscat because of the extreme heat (42 degrees) and high humidity.  Getting in and out of the oven of Mario’s car and walking around blinded by salty sweat dripping into our eyes and down our backs is not a pleasant experience, but Mario keeps reminding me: “What’s the worse that can happen?  So what, we’re sweating.  That’s the worst, right?”  And so we go: starting from the east on the harbor side of Al Alam Palace and working our way west, making a stop at Muscat Gate on the way.

view toward Mutrah from Ruwi

view toward Mutrah from Ruwi

Ruwi

Ruwi

Ruwi

Ruwi

Our first stop is at Muscat Gate Museum. The museum is closed, but we walk around and over the gate.  Opened in January 2001, the museum contains displays about Oman’s history from the Neolithic times to the present. I’ve never been inside the museum, but apparently it has a number of special exhibits on Muscat’s water springs, the ancient wells, underground channels, the souqs, houses, mosques, harbors and forts (Wikipedia: Muscat Gate Museum).

Muscat Gate

Muscat Gate

Muscat Gate

Muscat Gate

marigolds at Muscat Gate

zinnias at Muscat Gate

view of the Al Riyam Incense Burner from Muscat Gate

view of the Al Riyam Incense Burner from Muscat Gate

View from Muscat Gate

View from Muscat Gate

View of watchtower from Muscat Gate

View of watchtower from Muscat Gate

historic sign about Muscat

historic sign about Muscat

minaret

minaret

Al Alam Palace is the ceremonial palace of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos.  The palace was built by Imam Sultan bin Ahmed, the 7th direct grandfather of the current Sultan.  The existing palace, which has a facade of gold and blue, was rebuilt as a royal residence in 1972.  Visitors are not allowed inside the palace, despite the fact that His Majesty normally lives elsewhere in Oman. Al Alam Palace is surrounded by the Mirani and Jalali Forts, built in the 16th century by the Portuguese.

The Palace is used for official functions and receiving distinguished visitors and in January 2012, the Sultan received Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands at Al Alam Palace during her state visit to Oman (Wikipedia: Al Alam Palace).

I’ve visited Al Alam Palace several times while in Oman, but usually we come from the center of Muscaat, which has a long colonnaded approach and is quite picturesque.  I have heard there’s a back view, from the harbor, so today we go to the harbor side for pictures.  If you want to see the front view, you can check out this post: al alam palace in muscat.

Al Alam Palace from the harbor side

Al Alam Palace from the harbor side

fort and government buildings in Muscat

fort and government buildings in Muscat

government buildings in Muscat

government buildings in Muscat

Al Alam Palace from the back gate

Al Alam Palace from the back gate

fort near Al Alam Palace

fort near Al Alam Palace

Al-Riyam Park is along the coastal road and is a leafy park with a small fun fair and an ornamental incense burner adorning a rocky crag.

Incense burner in Al Riyam Park

Incense burner in Al Riyam Park

Watchtower near Riyam Park

Watchtower near Riyam Park

Watchtower

Watchtower

Incense burner

Incense burner

Incense burner of Riyam Park

Incense burner of Riyam Park

I want to stop and photograph a small mosque I always pass on the highway between Qurum and Ruwi.  We stop but the view from the ground is much less impressive than the view from the highway, which sits above the mosque.  Too bad it’s impossible to stop along the highway for photos.

the mosque on the way from Qurum to Ruwi

the mosque on the way from Qurum to Ruwi

mosque

mosque

The Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque (جامع السلطان سعيـد بن تيمور) was built in the memory of the father of Sultan Qaboos in 1999.  It sits off a roundabout in Al Khuwair near the Radisson Blu Hotel and the Technical College. The mosque is built in the style of Ottoman mosques which are found in Turkey. Sadly, Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque is not open to non-Muslims.  (Oman Tripper: Muscat’s Ten Most Beautiful Mosques)

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque, fashioned after Istanbul's Hagia Sophia

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque, fashioned after Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

flowers in a garden near Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

flowers in a garden near Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

flower garden at Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

flower garden at Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Here’s a video of the mosque during the Friday call to prayer, with a backdrop of screeching cicadas.

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

Sultan Said bin Taimur Mosque

We end the night with an Iranian meal at the Shiraz Restaurant at the Crowne Plaza, at the opposite end of Qurum Beach from where we started.  We meet our friend David, whose birthday is today, along with his friend and colleague, Janice, who’s from Marin, California.

the view of Qurum from the Crowne Plaza

the view of Qurum from the Crowne Plaza

view from the Crowne Plaza

view from the Crowne Plaza

I’m exhausted from our hot day, so I stay overnight at my favorite go-to hotel in Muscat: Safeer Suites, near Medinat Sultan Qaboos.  It’s really nice not to have to drive back home to Nizwa, as it’s a long tedious drive.  However, it’s money I certainly don’t like to spend.  Muscat hotels are not cheap. I’ve been saving like crazy for my month in Spain and Portugal and I really don’t want to part with any money in Oman unless absolutely necessary.  🙂

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caracalla dance theatre: “kan ya ma kan” at the royal opera house muscat

28 Tuesday May 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Caracalla Dance Theatre, Kan Ya Ma Kan, Muscat, Oman, Royal Opera House

≈ 29 Comments

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Muscat, Oman, Royal Opera House Muscat

Tuesday, May 28:  This afternoon my friend Kathy invites me at the last-minute to go to The Royal Opera House Muscat (ROHM) to see an amazing show put on by a Lebanese company, Caracalla Dance Theatre.  The show, called Kan Ya Ma Kan, (Once Upon a Time) is filled with music, energetic dancing, and colorful exotic costumes.  Sadly, no one is ever allowed to take photos of performances at the Royal Opera House, so I’m unable to show the dazzling and exotic costumes and sets that made this performance so stunning.

Kathy had originally planned to go with someone else who cancelled on her.  I had made no plans to attend any more shows at the Royal Opera House before I left Oman, so it was a lovely surprise and an amazing farewell to the Arab world.

Royal Opera House Muscat

Royal Opera House Muscat

Kan Ya Man Kan is a trilogy that features old Arab tales and folklore, told through dance — choreographed by Alissar Caracalla — and some narration, combined with European music performed by the Armenian State Opera and Ballet Theatre Symphony Orchestra (Times of Oman: Arabian tales to be told at ROHM).  According to the program, the orchestra was conducted by Maestro Mohamad Reza Aligholi and blended with the melodies of oriental instruments.

The Royal Opera House from the garden

The Royal Opera House from the garden

The first part used Russian composer Nicolai Rimsky-Korsakov’s music Sheherazade and focused on King Shahryar.  Based on One Thousand and One Nights, this orchestral work combines two features typical of Russian music and of Rimsky-Korsakov in particular: dazzling, colorful orchestration and an interest in the East (Wikipedia: Scheherazade (Rimsky-Korsakov)).

It then moved to Maurice Ravel’s music Bolero. The story was about a cunning wizard in an oriental market.  This is my favorite part of the performance with its traditional Arab souq as a backdrop and exotic costumes in jewel tones of purple, royal blue, fuchsia, turquoise and pink.  The costumes were stunningly made in mixtures of silks, chiffons, satins and velvets in mixed patterns, giving them a gypsy-like and bohemian feel.  The dancing in this part was so amazingly choreographed that I just sat in awe of the colorful extravaganza.

flowering tree in front of the Royal Opera House Muscat

Plumeria (aka Frangipani) in front of the Royal Opera House Muscat

The third and final part used traditional Arabic Heritage music and explored the cultures of the Arab world, including a tribute to Oman.  The guest star singer for this part was Hoda Haddad, sister of the famous and widely respected Lebanese singer Nouhad Wadi Haddad, known as Fairuz.  During Ms. Haddad’s songs, flashes of Oman’s famous landmarks (Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Al Alam Palace, Nakhal Fort, and many others) appeared on the screen behind, bringing enthusiastic applause from the audience.Royal Opera House Muscat

Royal Opera House Muscat

This production was adapted from the original, which premiered last summer in Lebanon, to fit the ROHM and was inspired by the building itself, explained Ivan. “This is like the first opening because the show changed. It’s inspired by the architecture of the opera house. It’s tailor-made for Oman,” said Ivan (Times of Oman: Arabian tales to be told at ROHM).

Royal Opera House from the gardens

Royal Opera House from the gardens

According to Times of Oman, Caracalla Dance Theatre is based on the concept of fusing Eastern and Western traditions. Its founder, Abdel-Halim Caracalla, studied under the American dance legend Martha Graham, so the choreography is more international, as are some of the music choices. The music, however, has been adapted to include traditional Arab instruments like the oud, kanun, Arab percussion, and ney (Times of Oman: Arabian tales to be told at ROHM).

Royal Opera House Muscat

Royal Opera House Muscat

According to the performance details on the ROHM website:  Ivan and Alissar maintain the cultural message of the Caracalla Theatre by transforming the Arab Heritage into an international art form with its dominant presence in the world of dance theatre.

Alissar is the founder of Studio Caracalla “L’Art de la Danse” and of the “Orientalist Dance Company”. She brings an innovative spirit to the unique Caracalla technique, to become the flame of present and future of the Arabic culture with her creative style in choreography, to amalgam the expression of the east and west in a unique dance style based on the Martha Graham technique.

Inside Royal Opera House Muscat

Inside Royal Opera House Muscat

This outstanding performance includes the guest participation of leading acting and singing stars of Lebanon including Hoda Haddad, Joseph Azar, Rifaat Torbey, Gabriel Yammine, Simon Obeid, and Toni Aad (ROHM: Performance Details).

leaving the Royal Opera House after the performance

leaving the Royal Opera House after the performance

Much of the performance harkened back to the days of Sultans and harems, and some of the sets made me think of Topkapı Palace, a large palace in Istanbul, Turkey, that was the primary residence of the Ottoman Sultans for approximately 400 years (1465-1856) of their 624-year reign (Wikipedia: Topkapı Palace).

The performance made me wonder what happened to the exotic and sensual Arabian world of old, which today, at least in Oman and other Gulf countries, has been turned into a cloistered world of white dishdashas and black abayas.

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friday meditation: my top ten happy memories in the sultanate

24 Friday May 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Al Aqr, Al Ayn, Al Qurum Resort, Al-Areesh Camp, Balad Sayt, Jade Garden, Jebel Akhdar, Middle East, Muscat, Nakhal Fort, Oman, Roses, Sahab Hotel, Saiq Plateau, Sharqiya Region, Sharqiya Sands, Sushi Buffet, Wadi Bani Awf, Wadi Bani Habib, Wadi Bani Kharus, Wadi MIstal, Wadi Shab, Wadi Tiwi, Wekan, Western Hajar Mountains

≈ 23 Comments

Tags

Life, Oman, Travel

Friday, Mary 24: I will carry to America hundreds of wonderful memories of my time here in the Sultanate of Oman.  There are too many to put into one blog post, as I have written over 475 posts during my 20+ months here.  As part of my fond farewell to Oman, here are my top 10 happy memories.

1.  On April 19, 2012, Mario, his Omani friend Sultan and I went on a mis-adventure to Wadi Damm.  It was shortly after a big rainfall and we had to cross about 10 fast-flowing wadis.  It was a foolish exploit, because many people get killed every year in flooding wadis; it rains so rarely here that most of the time the wadis are bone dry and people don’t realize how dangerous they are.  For us on this day, it was a grand & somewhat dangerous adventure.  We laughed a lot and then ended up at my house drinking wine and enjoying the night away ~ high jinks all around.  (an attempted trip to wadi damm ~ foiled by raging wadis)

one of the raging wadis on the way to Ibri

one of the raging wadis on the way to Ibri

2. On April 26, 2012, two of my friends, Kathy and Tom, and I ventured across the Hajar Mountains in Oman.  We drove over a treacherous dirt road along the edges of steep mountains through Wadi Bani Awf toward an idyllic little village called Balad Sayt.  In order to get to this beautiful village, we had to clamber through a pool-filled canyon to emerge on the other side in an open bowl surrounded by mountains.  The village with all its lush green plantations sits in the middle of this bowl.  Kathy made the mistake of abandoning her shoes beside one of the pools in the canyon.  When she came out on the Balad Sayt side, she struggled mightily to walk over the burning gravelly path up to the village. She devised several methods to protect her feet, using discarded pieces of rotten wood which she tossed ahead of her one step at a time; this painstaking method didn’t work too well.  She finally tied some flexible bark around her feet with old twine.  I know it wasn’t too funny for Kathy, but Tom and I never laughed so hard in our lives! (52 pick up: success (aka overcoming adversity))

Kathy and her bark and twine makeshift shoes ~ at Balad Sayt, Oman

Kathy and her bark and twine makeshift shoes ~ at Balad Sayt, Oman

3. On March 28, 2013, Mario and I went up to Jebel Akhdar to see the roses.  The year before, we had tried to see the roses but had come too late.  This time, we were able to breathe in the sweet fragrance and take lovely photos of the pink blossoms.  We had a lovely time walking through the rose gardens and then having wine and dinner at the Sahab Hotel after (the roses of jebel akdhar & a lovely encounter with an irish couple).  We repeated similar amazing experiences on Jebel Akhdar so many other times, I can’t even count them all.

Roses on Jebel Akhdar

Roses on Jebel Akhdar

Everyone who reads my blog knows that my favorite place in Oman is Jebel Akhdar.  Each time I went up the “Green Mountain,” I had different memorable experiences that I’ll carry in my heart always.  Here are a couple more of my favorite times.

  • Taking Beg and Mona Lisa up to the mountain on Valentine’s Day, 2013:  a valentine’s day adventure on jebel akhdar

    the terraces of Jebel Akhdar on Valentine's Day

    the terraces of Jebel Akhdar on Valentine’s Day

  • Taking Mike, Alex and Adam to the Hanging Villages on January 8, 2013: a hike around the hanging villages of wadi al ayn on jebel akhdar

    Alex, Mike and Adam on Jebel Akhdar

    Alex, Mike and Adam on Jebel Akhdar

  • Hiking through Wadi Bani Habib with Mario and his Omani friend Mohammed on Thanksgiving Day, November 22, 2012: thanksgiving day on jebel akhdar: villages of wadi bani habib. {part two}
    finding colorful ruins at Wadi Bani Habib with Mario & Mohammed

    finding colorful ruins at Wadi Bani Habib with Mario & Mohammed

    Mario in the ruins of Wadi Bani Habib on Jebel Akhdar

    Mario in the ruins of Wadi Bani Habib on Jebel Akhdar

  • Taking Malcolm and his lovely wife Sandy to Jebel Akhdar on a cold December night in 2012: a cold but lovely night at the sahab on jebel akhdar

    Sandy & Malcolm on a cold night on Jebel Akhdar

    Sandy & Malcolm on a cold night on Jebel Akhdar

4) On May 11, 2012, Mario and I went hiking on Jebel Akhdar in search of the roses, but we were too late to see them.  However, we had one of many great conversations throughout the course of our friendship.  After our hike, he invited me to come over and share lime-flavored white corn TOSTITOS® tortilla chips (a rare find in Oman), apricot & almond cheese, cheddar cheese and a bottle of wine.  We sat in his air-conditioned living room and talked about the tribal society of Oman and the confining rules under which a tribe must live, a conversation I call “escaping the tribe.”  Sometimes I think I should write a book titled “Conversations with Mario.” (searching for roses on jebel akhdar & a conversation about escaping the “tribe”)

Ruins at Wadi Bani Habib on Jebel Akhdar

Ruins at Wadi Bani Habib on Jebel Akhdar

5) On January 13, 2012, my sons came to visit me in Oman, and all of us loved our excursion into the watery cave at Wadi Shab (cliff-jumping in the hidden caves of wadi shab).  Stunningly beautiful.

The entrance to the pools at Wadi Shab that you must swim through to get to the cave

The entrance to the pools at Wadi Shab that you must swim through to get to the cave

6) On April 11, 2013, Mario and I went to explore Wadi Bani Kharous.  Not only did we explore the multitudes of picturesque villages in that wadi, but we experienced some great Omani hospitality along the way. (a trip to wadi bani kharous)

Omani hospitality at Wadi Bani Kharous

Omani hospitality at Wadi Bani Kharous

7) On Tuesday, February 21, 2013 Mario and I went on a huge road trip, where we explored Wadi Dayqah Dam, among other places, and ended up in Wadi Arbiyyin on the east coast of Oman.  Then we headed to Muscat and had a sushi buffet.  It was the road trip to beat all road trips, and perfectly lovely, except for the gunshots that scared us out of our wits. (wadi arbiyyin >> quriyat >> sushi in muscat. {the road trip: part 3})

Wadi Arbiyyin on the east coast of Oman

Wadi Arbiyyin on the east coast of Oman

8)  When I first arrived in Oman, I coudn’t find anyone who wanted to go exploring Oman on the first National Holiday, so I went by myself. I had a great time at Al Areesh Desert Camp meeting random people and listening & dancing to the Bedouin music. (national holiday chapter 3: sharqiya sands & al-areesh desert camp)

Bedouin singers at Al Areesh Desert Camp

Bedouin singers at Al Areesh Desert Camp

9)  When I went to Jordan over the 2011 Eid, I met an Italian guy, Guido, who came to visit me in Oman in December.  We had a great time going to Wadi Tiwi on his visit here on December 2, 2011. (cathy takes guido to wadis tiwi & shab…and up the coast to muscat)

Exploring Wadi Tiwi with Guido

Exploring Wadi Tiwi with Guido

10) The first time I went to Nakhal Fort, had lunch with an Omani family, then drove through Wadi Mistal to Wekan was simply magical. (nakhal fort, lunch with an omani family & a wild drive up wadi mistal)

My first magical time in Wekan

My first magical time in Wekan

I’ve been to some of these places many times, and each time was wonderfully special.  I’ve picked my favorites based on a feeling of peace and contentment I experienced during those specific times.

My time here in Oman is coming to a close.  I am ready to leave, but I will carry many happy memories with me. 🙂

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travel theme: beaches

11 Saturday May 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Africa, Al Musanaah, Americas, As Sifah Beach, Asia, barr al jissah resort & spa, Beaches, Busan, Crete, Ethiopia, Europe, Greece, Jordan, Lake Langano, Middle East, Muscat, Oman, Plakias, Sangju, Sangju Silver Sand Beach, Shangri-La Barr al Jissah Resort and Spa, South Korea, The Dead Sea, Travel Theme Photo Challenge, United States of America, Virginia, York River, Yorktown, Yorktown Beach

≈ 64 Comments

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travel theme

Saturday, May 11: Ailsa’s Travel Theme for this week is Beaches. Here are some beaches I’ve encountered in my travels.

Let’s start at the beginning.  Here is the beach of my childhood, on the York River in Yorktown, Virginia.  I spent many of my teenage years hanging out with my friends on this beach.

Yorktown Beach with the York River Bridge in the background.  This is my hometown.

Yorktown Beach with the York River Bridge in the background. This is my hometown.

In general, I prefer deserted, quiet, peaceful and unpopulated beaches, NOT beaches packed with people and umbrellas and chairs and tents and inner tubes like Guryongpo Beach near Pohang, South Korea or Patong Beach in Phuket, Thailand.  Most beaches in South Korea are crowded, as Korea is a tiny country with a huge population of 48 million people.  Haeundae Beach in Busan is nice enough in early April, when this picture was taken, but it’s usually quite crowded.

the tacky, crowded Guryongpo Beach near Pohang, South Korea

the crowded Guryongpo Beach near Pohang, South Korea

another crowded and tacky beach in Phuket, Thailand

another crowded beach in Phuket, Thailand

Haeundae Beach in Busan, South Korea

Haeundae Beach in Busan, South Korea

It’s not so bad if the beach is set up with mostly EMPTY beach chairs and umbrellas, like this beach in Plakias, Crete, Greece.  At least it’s on the Mediterranean, and what could be better than that?

Plakias Beach, Crete, Greece

Plakias Beach, Crete, Greece

Plakias Beach in Crete, Greece

Plakias Beach in Crete, Greece

Sometimes it’s nice to hang out at a hotel beach, like this beach at Shangri-La Resort near Muscat, Oman. It has a huge pool and a lazy river, so you can dip in the fresh water and wash off the salt and sand from time to time.

Beach at the Shangri-la Resort near Muscat, Oman

Beach at the Shangri-la Resort near Muscat, Oman

Beach at the Shangri-la Resort near Muscat, Oman

Beach at the Shangri-la Resort near Muscat, Oman

Some beaches in Oman are quite deserted or are used mainly by fishermen.  Every time I’ve been to these beaches, they’ve been so extremely hot, I don’t find them enjoyable.  Some of the beaches are so deserted they’re used only by campers.

As Sifah Beach near Muscat, Oman

As Sifah Beach near Muscat, Oman

Omani fisherman at Al Musanaah Beach, Oman

Omani fisherman at Al Musanaah Beach, Oman

Seashells on the beach at Al Musanaah in Oman

Seashells on the beach at Al Musanaah in Oman

a deserted beach where people camp on the east coast of Oman

a deserted beach where people camp on the east coast of Oman

This beach on the Dead Sea in Jordan is quite small, and it’s really impossible to swim in the water because of the high salt content.  No matter what you do, you end up in a position like you are sitting in an armchair, with your arms, legs and head floating on the water’s surface.  Only your rear end sinks in the water.

beach at the Dead Sea in Jordan

beach at the Dead Sea in Jordan

Some beaches are just little strips of sand situated on a lake shore, like this beach at Lake Langano, Ethiopia.

a small beach at Lake Langano, Ethiopia

a small beach at Lake Langano, Ethiopia

Luckily, there are some picture-perfect beaches like Sangju “Silver Sand” Beach in South Korea.

Sangju "Silver Sand" Beach in South Korea

Sangju “Silver Sand” Beach in South Korea

Sangju "Silver Sand" Beach, South Korea

Sangju “Silver Sand” Beach, South Korea

To see more beaches, check out Where’s my backpack? Travel Theme: Beaches.

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weekly photo challenge: pattern

10 Friday May 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Asia, Boseong, Emirates Palace, Maisan, Middle East, Muscat, Oman, postaweek2013, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque, South Korea, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Suncheon Bay, United Arab Emirates, Weekly Photo Challenge

≈ 78 Comments

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Oman, South Korea, United Arab Emirates, weekly photo challenge

Friday, May 10:  This week’s WordPress Weekly Photo Challenge is Pattern. Patterns are everywhere. Patterns are sometimes intentional and sometimes accidental. They can be decorative or merely a result of repetition, and often patterns can be in the eye of the beholder to discover them.

Sometimes man makes patterns out of nature, as in these tea farms in Boseong, South Korea.

Boseong Tea Plantations in South Korea

Boseong Tea Plantations in South Korea

And sometimes nature makes its own patterns, as in these wetlands in Suncheon Bay Ecological Park in South Korea.

Suncheon Bay Ecological Park in South Korea

Suncheon Bay Ecological Park in South Korea

At other times, man makes patterns to show reverence at places of worship, such as this Buddhist temple in Maisan, South Korea.

a temple in Maisan, South Korea

a temple in Maisan, South Korea

Or to show reverence to Allah, as in the Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque in Abu Dhabi, UAE or the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, Oman.

Mosque in Abu Dhabi

Mosque in Abu Dhabi

Mosaic at Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, Oman

Mosaic at Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, Oman

And sometimes, man makes patterns to show his own ability to create opulence, as at Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi.

Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi

Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi

dome at Emirates Palace

dome at Emirates Palace

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breakfast at the chedi

12 Friday Apr 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Muscat, Oman, The Chedi

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Muscat, Oman, Travel

Friday, April 12:  We wake up in The Gulf Sand Hotel in Al Musanaah to find we have no water.  We are planning to go the The Chedi, one of the most upscale hotels in Muscat, for the Friday breakfast buffet, so this is not acceptable.  I run out to the front desk and since the receptionist doesn’t speak English I do all kinds of pantomimes to show him that I have no water in my room.  They run around looking for people in the know, and finally a Bangladeshi guy comes, turns a switch and fills up the water tank.  Sweet relief!

pretty little flowers outside the Chedi

pretty little flowers outside the Chedi

wildflowers outside the Chedi

wildflowers outside the Chedi

We drive to Muscat, which takes us over an hour since we get a little lost and end up driving in the wrong direction past the sprawling new airport that is under construction.  When we finally get there, I am struck by the Zen-like atmosphere of the Chedi.  It has plenty of simple white arches and waterfall gardens, but it feels more Japanese than Arab.  The 5-star boutique hotel fuses together traditional Omani architecture with Zen, Arabic, Japanese and European influences.

entrance to the Chedi

entrance to the Chedi

inside the lobby of the Chedi

inside the lobby of the Chedi

The website for the Chedi describes the hotel as follows: “Where the majestic Al Hajar Mountains meet their luminous reflection in the serene waters of the Gulf of Oman, the Chedi Muscat rises amidst an elegantly landscaped twenty-one acre garden oasis with 158 Omani influenced guestrooms and villas. This sublime yet central location equally suits leisure and business travellers while six distinct restaurants, a just opened thirteen-suite Balinese spa, three swimming pools, including the 103-metre Long Pool, 400-square metre health club plus two executive meeting rooms enhance Muscat’s considerable cultural attractions.”

inside the restaurant

inside the restaurant

We decide to sit inside as it’s quite muggy and hot in Muscat today.  We’re directed to several stations where we can get typical breakfast fare, pastries or desserts.  We both desperately need coffee as we haven’t really woken up.

table decor

table decor

After we get our coffee, I pile my plate with olives, yogurt, feta and Arabic cheese, spinach, sautéed mushrooms, potato cakes, and chicken sausages.  We both order omelets with cheddar cheese, mushrooms and tomatoes.

my first plate

my first plate

The breakfast buffet runs from 7:30-10:30 a.m. and costs 15 rials plus 17% taxes.  Our total bill is 17.5 rials, or about $45.  After eating our omelets, we head to the pastry bar, but I’m too full to indulge much. This is the problem with buffets; I never can eat enough to feel like I get my money’s worth.

me at the Chedi

me at the Chedi

After breakfast, we walk around the grounds and see the outdoor seating areas, the pool, and the beach from a distance.   We’re not allowed to go to the beach because we’re not hotel guests. Anyway, it doesn’t matter to me because I’m underwhelmed.  I think I prefer Al Bustan Palace or the Shangri-La to the Chedi.

an outdoor seating area at the Chedi

an outdoor seating area at the Chedi

the outdoor dining area

the outdoor dining area

the pool at the Chedi

the pool at the Chedi

the pool

the pool

looking out from the entrance

looking out from the entrance

After breakfast, I try to put flyers up for the sale of my car in the Al Fair grocery stores around Muscat that expats frequent, but the bulletin boards are too full and one of them won’t even take my flyer.  They tell me it costs 5 rials to hang it up for a week.  I put one up in the Medinat Sultan Qaboos Al Fair, but I guess that 5 rial cost will limit me to putting the flyers in only a few places.

On the way back from Muscat, I stop to show another Omani my car and he makes an offer which I still feel is too low.  Oh well, I still have time, so I’m not going to panic.  Not yet. 🙂

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sunday post: bay

17 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Asia, Crete, Europe, Greece, Halong Bay, Jakesprinter Sunday Post, Middle East, Muscat, Muttrah, Oman, Photography Challenges, Plakias, Shangri-La Barr al Jissah Resort and Spa, Vietnam

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Sunday Post

Sunday, March 17:  Jake’s Sunday Post for this week is bay.  A bay is defined as: A broad inlet of the sea where the land curves inward.

Here is the famous Halong Bay in Vietnam.

Halong Bay in Vietnam

Halong Bay in Vietnam

Halong Bay in Vietnam

Halong Bay in Vietnam

On the south coast of Crete, a beach town called Plakias sits within a small, glimmering bay.

a bay off the southern coast of Crete, in Plakias

a bay off the southern coast of Crete, in Plakias

Plakias, Crete

Plakias, Crete

And in Oman, we can find a number of small bays as well.

a small bay on the coast of Oman

a small bay on the coast of Oman

a bay at Shangri-La Resort in Oman

a bay at Shangri-La Resort in Oman

And finally, here is a harbor, which is sort of like a bay, but more so.  A harbor is a place on the coast where vessels may find shelter, esp. one protected from rough water by piers, jetties, and other artificial structures.   Here is the harbor at Mutrah in Oman.

the bay, or harbor, at Mutrah in Oman

the harbor at Mutrah in Oman

Mutrah Harbor

Mutrah Harbor

Sunday Post

 

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a morning at mutrah souq and lunch at the blue marlin

14 Thursday Mar 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Blue Marlin Restaurant, Marina Bandar al Rowdha, Middle East, Muscat, Muttrah Souq, Oman

≈ 15 Comments

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Muscat, Oman, Travel

Thursday, March 14:  This morning I took a couple of my friends to Muscat to visit Mutrah Souq and then to have lunch at the Blue Marlin Restaurant at Marina Bandar al Rowdha.  Mona Lisa had never been to Mutrah Souq before; Char had been before, but only once.  Though I have sworn off spending money during my remaining months in Oman, I did break down and buy a couple of necklaces and a black Indian tunic.  Here are a couple of pictures from our day.

Mutrah Fort

Mutrah Fort

the view from Muttrah Corniche

the view from Muttrah Corniche

a dhow at the harbor

a dhow at the harbor

incense burning....

incense burning….

glass ornaments

glass ornaments

more Turkish lamps

more Turkish lamps

Turkish lamps at Mutrah Souq

Turkish lamps at Mutrah Souq

beaded lamps

beaded lamps

shoes at the souq

shoes at the souq

It wasn’t too hot to sit outside for lunch at the Blue Marlin Restaurant, so we did just that, overlooking the beautiful Marina Bandar al Rowdha.

Mona Lisa and Char at the Blue Marlin

Mona Lisa and Char at the Blue Marlin

Smoked salmon baguette at the Blue Marlin

Smoked salmon baguette at the Blue Marlin

Marina Bandar al Rowdha

Marina Bandar al Rowdha

traditional boat

traditional boat

me and Mona Lisa

me and Mona Lisa

boats in the marina

boats in the marina

Intissar at the Marina

Intisaar at the Marina

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travel theme: bridges

23 Saturday Feb 2013

Posted by nomad, interrupted in Al Amerat, Bridges, Creative Arts, Oman, Photography Challenges, Travel Theme Photo Challenge

≈ 22 Comments

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Oman, Travel, travel theme

Saturday, February 23:  Ailsa’s travel theme for this week (Where’s my backpack?) is BRIDGES.

This weekend in our Thursday explorations of Oman, we came upon this bridge over some wetlands in Al Amerat.

A new bridge over the wetlands near Al Amerat

A new bridge over the wetlands near Al Amerat

reflections of the bridge from the underside

reflections of the bridge from the underside

wetlands and the other side of the bridge

wetlands and the other side of the bridge

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