Saturday, June 1: This morning, Mario takes his friend Sultan and me to see the extensive ruins in Adam, about 40 km south of Nizwa in Ad Dakhiliyah region. I am surprised to see such an extensive array of ruins, and to see that they are actually being restored.
the first of three huge sets of ruins in Adam
one of many painted metal doors in the ruins of Adam
We take a long stroll through ancient forts, citadels and towers, mosques and deserted traditional souqs, all surrounded by beautiful gardens of date palms, pomegranates, apricots, figs, bananas and numerous other fruit trees. Today is about 40 degrees C (104 F) and unusually high humidity for the interior, so we are sweating profusely. I drink a bottle of water; despite this, my head is pounding. We make a short detour to the local market for Panadol. This is not a strenuous hike, mind you, but even a leisurely stroll is taxing in this heat.
ruins and gardens in Adam
arches and gardens
The history of the Wilayat of Adam dates back to pre-Islamic times. Adam has several meanings in Arabic but most likely means “fertile land.” The most notable places are Harrat Al Ain, Harrat al Bousaid, Harrat Al Hawashim & Harrat Bani Shiban, where several archeological sites have been found, and Harr Al Jamii, which is more recent. About 13,000 people live in sixty villages around Adam. (Wikipedia: Adam, Oman)
Click on any photo in the gallery below for a full-sized slide show.
When Mario visited Adam last weekend, he got a tour of the ruins from a local Omani man who told him about the restoration project. A large section of the ruins, where we find many painted rooms, has been restored already. The government seems to be using mud bricks for the restoration, which is same construction material as the original buildings.
mud bricks lined up for the restoration project
Apparently, in March of 2012, a meeting was held between the Ministry of Heritage and Culture (MoHC) and the Ministry of Tourism on restoration and management plans for Al Jame village in Adam and Al Bilad in Manah, where intensive restoration work is going on. Other members of the committee included the Ministry of Housing, Ministry of Interior, Ministry of Regional Municipalities and Water Resources and the Supreme Committee for Town Planning. (Muscat Daily: Restoration of historical sites to be discussed at MoHC meeting).
It’s obvious to us as we walk around how expensive this project must be. We have visited so many ruins throughout Oman that are in various stages of disintegration, so Mario and I are both pleased to see the government restoring these amazing ruins. At least these villages can increase local employment and make some money off these tourist sites. Mario also thinks the ruins could be used in movie sets.
Click on any of the images below for a full-sized slide show.
This project is just one example of the amazing things Sultan Qaboos has done in this country to bring its people into the modern world. The list is extensive: excellent roads, hospitals, schools and universities, a huge airport that is currently under construction, desalination plants, dams and recharge dams, and too many other projects to count. As I have a Master’s degree in International Commerce and Policy, the focus of which is economic development, and as I have traveled extensively all over the world and seen many places where the governments do NOT take care of their people, I have to salute the visionary Sultan and his government for a comprehensive development plan in the midst of a very harsh environment.
painted room and ceiling with Quranic verses at the top perimeter of the walls
We’re exhausted from our 2 hour stroll through these ruins in the heat, so we go to the New Firq Restaurant for an early lunch. On our way, I ask Sultan when he started wearing glasses, as I’ve never seen him wearing them before. Mario says, “Show her your glasses.” He doesn’t take them off, but I say to him what I suspected all along: “Don’t tell me those glasses don’t have lenses in them!” Sultan shows me how the frames broke and the lenses fell out. I ask why he is still wearing them. I am reminded of Korean boys who often wore frames without lenses, and I thought that was silly. Sultan says, “Don’t they make me look stylish?” I say, “They make you look like you’re trying too hard.” Mario says, “I said the same thing to him!”
Sometimes, great minds think alike….. 🙂
Mario and Sultan at the New Firq Restaurant
Those restored painted rooms are totally amazing, Cath! Definitely film set material. I was going to remark on the great shot of the metal door, till I got to the rooms! Awesome. 🙂
I love those painted rooms too, Jo. I really hope they don’t cover them up during the restoration, as many of them are really cracked.
Of all of the places I have visited (vicariously) in Oman with you, this is one I’d like to see up close and personal. It looks deceptively cool and your photos are just wonderful! You are a much braver soul than I – at a temp of 104, I would have trouble leaving the air conditioning.
I was so surprised to find this place, Carol; I would have never known about it if Mario hadn’t heard about it through a friend. I keep thinking I’ve seen everything there is to see in Oman, and then something else pops up. 🙂
I have ‘liked’ some of your photos and now feel guilty about not liking them all. Because I do.
Ah, thanks so much, mrs. carmichael. I’m so glad you like them. It was certainly fun taking the pictures. 🙂
I wonder why this place was abandoned in the first place. Usually, it’s due to climate change or lack of water… but there seems to be plenty of water supporting the growth of food….any idea? BTW, these places all seem fascinating to me. Although, I could care less for touring in that kind of heat!
Since a local Omani guy gave Mario the tour, he said that people were living in these homes just 25 years ago. The Sultan came into power and started developing the country in 1970; before that, I think everyone lived in villages such as these. This country has only been being developed for 43 years! 🙂
How I would love to explore those ruins Cathy. The painted rooms are indeed fabulous!
Yes, I loved the painted rooms too, Madhu. It is so surprising that I keep finding new things in Oman. I really thought I had seen everything there is to see! 🙂
Beautiful images, Cathy. It looks like a wonderful place to explore. I love the paintings. It was hot here today, too, and I came back from a bike ride with a pounding head.
Yes, I saw your post about the bike ride, which I loved. It’s no fun to be out in the heat. I can’t tell you how much I look forward to returning to four seasons! 🙂
I love this post Cathy! And it is so true, Oman Tourism is doing a of work to create great attractions for tourists. Your photos are a visual feast!
Thanks so much, Anne! I’m glad you like it! I’m so glad Oman is restoring these places. I read there’s another restoration project in Manah, not far from me, but I’m not sure I have the energy to go out to explore it in this heat. 🙂
Like others, I have so many favorites, the gardens and arches being one of them. You give credit where credit is due for the restoration and on going infrastructure projects. What a great place to explore and learn about.
Thanks so much, Lynne. I’m really happy to see these restoration projects. And especially in this one, where they use the same original materials. So many of Oman’s forts are restored, but they look like they’re brand new!
Amazing is right! I can’t believe the painted rooms – they have such a gay, carefree, innocent atmosphere. It’s wonderful that the gov. is going to the trouble to do this the right way. And great you got to see it – really nice photos, as usual. I’m struck by how pretty the palm fronds are against the architecture in the photos you took, and then I see that echoed in the painted rooms. You say it’s pre-Islamic – it does look like it’s done by a different people, or a different sensibility. Hats off to you for sweating this one out & getting all these great shots! Hope you had a nice cool glass of wine afterwards…
Yes, I like this too, the gardens echoed in the paintings in the rooms. I read Adam itself is pre-Islamic, but I doubt these buildings are that old. I can’t believe, as they are made out of mudbrick which deteriorates quite readily, that these buildings would still be standing after 1400+ years.
I wish I could have had a cool glass of wine after this, but as it was barely lunchtime (11:30 a.m. or so) when we stopped, and I’m not an afternoon drinker, I had to postpone this pleasure for another day. 🙂
many cities in Oman had old history, i am very happy when i read from other people visite my country and write about places where they go.
Thanks, Khalid. I’ve been to many wonderful places in Oman, as you can see from my blog. I’ve really enjoyed my time here. 🙂
We were very impressed with all that Sultan Qaboos has achieved. He is certainly a man of vision.
I agree, Carol. This country is really lucky to have a man with such vision. 🙂
Oh wonderful images ! What an amazing place.
Thanks so much, Sybil. I was so happy to have discovered this place before I leave. 🙂
This was such an interesting tour, Cathy. Thanks for taking me along with you, without my having to endure the terrible heat. 🙂 How marvellous that the Sultan realises how important it is to restore these ruins for posterity.
Yes, I’m really happy to see these ruins being restored. Many throughout Oman are in serious disrepair, but it all takes time. The Sultan has only been in power since 1970, and all development here has occurred since he came into power. He’s really a man with vision. 🙂
It’s odd to be that something called ruins are actually so beautiful.
I agree, TBM. I’m often surprised by how picturesque the ruins in Oman are. 🙂
Missed your adventures catbird! Lovely pictures as always! 🙂
Thanks so much, Ioanna! Glad to have you back. Good luck on your job search! 🙂