Thursday, February 28: Today, Mario and I embark on another road trip, this time to Al Batinah. Since we pass the outskirts of Muscat, we make a stop to stock up on some wine, and then head west along the north coast to Barka. Driving inland from Barka, on the Rustaq Loop, we end up at Nakhal Fort by about 10:30 a.m.

Nakhal Fort

Nakhal Fort

Archway into Nakhal Fort
Nakhal Fort is by far my favorite fort in Oman. This is the third time I’ve been here, and each time I love it as much as I did on my previous visits. Nakhal means palm, and once you climb to the top of the fort, you can see date palms stretching out in every direction. The fort sits atop a small natural rock outcrop, surrounded by these date palm plantations, with Jebel Nakhal, a spur of the Western Hajar Mountains, as a backdrop (Rough Guide Oman). It’s picture-perfect.

majlis with jewel-colored cushions

Nakhal Fort is built on a solid rock foundation

Looking up at Nakhal from inside

The view of the Nakhal mosque from the fort

watchtower at Nakhal Fort
According to Rough Guide Oman, the fort probably dates back to pre-Islamic times. It has been remodeled throughout the centuries, including a substantial rebuilding in the 17th century. During the reign of imam Said bin Sultan, in 1834, the present gateway and towers were added, and in 1990, the fort was totally restored.

Nakhal Fort

Canon at Nakhal Fort

Date palm plantations and Jebel Nakhal

the fort

crenelations

the fort
I like this fort because of its crazy angles and because the rock outcrop is incorporated into the fort’s foundation. There are multiple sitting rooms, or majlis, throughout, decked out with colorful pottery, beautiful carpets, and jewel-colored cushions. A couple of the children’s rooms have beds in them. Mario thinks he wants to lie down on one because his back has been giving him trouble, but he doesn’t, of course.

fort

more of the fort

me in the majlis

a child’s bedroom

ceiling in one of the rooms
Some of the small watchtowers have small loopholes just big enough for a rifle barrel, plus wider openings where, in typical Omani fashion, boiling date juice or honey could be poured over attackers below.

the imposing Nakhal Fort

views from the fort

from the gardens below: Nakhal Fort

another view

in the gardens below the fort
We walk into the jail, where the smells are not pleasant and we can only imagine the horrible conditions the prisoners endured. After making the rounds, we go outside to the gardens below the fort and take some pictures from there.

a peek through the flowers

pretty blossom
After we leave the fort, we venture further into the town of Nakhal to Ain a’Thawwarah hot springs. This place reminds me of Wadi Bani Khalid; it’s crammed with locals. It’s a popular spot for practically everyone, including groups of Omanis of Zanzibar origin pounding on drums, chanting and dancing. The sounds are quite cacophonous, as two groups are playing their own brand of loud music right across the stream from each other. The hot spring itself is just a small rectangular concrete pool fed by warm natural spring water and filled with local Omani boys. Not my kind of place at all.

Ain a’Thawwarah hot springs, full of Omani boys

hamming it up

the Zanzibari-Omanis dance and play drums and music

the stream leading to the hot springs
After leaving this spot, we have a nice little lunch in a restaurant in Nakhal before we head to Wadi Bani Awf to visit Little Snake Canyon.

a restaurant in Nakhal where we have some lunch

a variety of fruits to make fresh fruit juices
Today’s post makes me want to travel there desperately!
Thanks so much, Cyn. Maybe you should plan a trip here. 🙂
I would so like to go there- you look very happy!
Thanks so much, Kathryn. 🙂
Your photo of the archway at the entrance of the fort – I have that exact same photo! And many of the others are similar. We really enjoyed the day we went there and we also visited Rustaq fort as well. Fantastic ancient buildings.
Thanks so much, Carol. And so funny you have the same photo. I love that area of the country for some reason. I think the mountains are really dramatic there. I’m glad you enjoyed your time there. 🙂
We thought the mountains were amazing. That trip was our first journey out of Muscat and we were just blown away by the scenery. I’m enjoying so much seeing it all again with you.
I too love Oman’s mountains, Carol! I’m one of the few people from Nizwa who hardly ever goes to Muscat. I always head to the mountains instead. It’s so funny though; when I meet people from Muscat, they say: “Oh, you live in Nizwa? I’m so sorry!” As if it’s a bad place to live. They don’t know what they’re missing!
Another great day – I can see why you like the fort – I also really like the way the rock is incorporated, and the almost modern look of the architecture – so simple. The designs on the ceiling are nice, and those white flowers are really cool – I wonder what they are? Guns in the sitting room – hmm, well, OK, we’re not in America, are we? The restaurant is interesting looking too – the ceiling! Those chairs! (That photo of you! Beaming! It’s great.)
Thank you so much, Lynn. I love how that rock is incorporated into the fort too. Yes, the guns in the sitting room are quite interesting, right? Thanks so much for all your kind compliments! Thanks for coming along on my little outing. 🙂
Love the colors and buildings in your post. Beautifully photographed!
BE ENCOURAGED! BE BLESSED!
Thank you so much, Francine!
A beautiful fort – the walls look so smooth, almost velvety. I especially like the 3rd picture of the arched doorway – it just draws me in. The flowers? Oleander, perhaps (the white ones) and the pink maybe Hibiscus? This would be where I’d get the garden app out, if I had one.
A garden app would be great, Carol. That sounds like something I need because I never know the names of flowers. I’m glad you like the fort and the arched doorway. This truly is my favorite fort in Oman. 🙂
Cathy, what stunning pictures you have taken of one of your favorite places. The views are spectacular and always full of blue skies and sunshine. No pollution here.
You are fortunate to have Mario, a dear friend who enjoys the same outings and conversation you do. I don’t know that I will ever make it to Oman, so going on these journeys with you is a traveler’s treat.
Thanks so much, Lynn. I’m so lucky to have a friend like Mario who is of the same mind as me. We are such great travel companions. I count myself blessed to have him as a friend. I’m so glad you enjoy coming along with me on my explorations. I wish you were here to come in person! 🙂
I would love a ceiling like that! Hmm, maybe some inspiration for decorating. 😉
Thanks so much, Ruth! I love that ceiling too!
Great post! Brings back good memories 🙂 I have some very similar photos of this fort. We had a local driver take us there and he tried to get us to get a fish “pedicure” in those hot springs. ewww. Not my cup of tea! 🙂
A fish “pedicure?” Is there such a thing there? See what happens when you don’t have a guide? We don’t get the benefit of the local knowledge! 🙂