abu dhabi heritage village, the marina mall and marina

Thursday, November 15:  We have our Big Bus Tour drop us off at Abu Dhabi Heritage Village, which is supposed to give a glimpse of Abu Dhabi in its pre-oil days.  A sign at the entrance says “(Closed) ON Tursday – Islamic new year holiday,” which we first take to mean TUESDAY, since the door is open and people are milling about.

the entrance to Abu Dhabi Heritage Village

However, it becomes apparent as we wander around that in fact it is closed today, THURSDAY, as all the exhibits are closed.  This doesn’t stop people from making their way past the police barricades into the village.  The village boasts a re-creation of a souq (closed), a traditional mosque (closed) and a Bedouin encampment with goat-hair tents and a barasti house (closed).  The place is also supposed to have craftsmen making pots, blowing glass, and weaving on a traditional loom, but of course all these artisans are absent today.  There is also a museum on site, but needless to say, we can’t visit that either.

inside the entrance to the Heritage Village

the only inhabitant of Heritage Village today, other than tourists….

Hello, mister.

We do wander down to the beach in the village, where we see some traditional boats. An Emirati boy on a jet ski is showing off and spraying water on some Chinese girls standing on the beach, to their obvious delight.  Across the water, we can see the modern skyline of Abu Dhabi.  Of course, modernity is what Abu Dhabi is all about these days, and it’s really hard to find much of tradition here.

a traditional boat at Abu Dhabi Heritage Village with the modern Abu Dhabi skyline in the background

another traditional boat and skyline

Yes, the Heritage Village is closed today, but it actually looks quite shabby and we are under-impressed. I don’t think it would have made any difference if it had been open.  I tell my friend Tony that we can see more of tradition, and the real thing (not a tourist trap like this) in Oman.

Khanjar and incense burner (??) at Heritage Village

Abu Dhabiis the largest and wealthiest of the emirates.  It makes up nearly 87% of the UAE’s total area.  In 1966, soon after oil was discovered here in 1958, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan took over from his brother who had ruled Abu Dhabi since 1928.  A visionary diplomat, he used the oil revenue to build up the infrastructure in Abu Dhabi and the other emirates, gaining respect and great influence.  He helped create the UAE in 1971 and became its first president.  When he died in 2004, his eldest son, Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed al-Nahyan, became ruler of Abu Dhabi and president of UAE.  The country’s oil wealth is predicted to run out sometime after 2100.

a cultural hall near the Heritage Village

We leave the Village and wander past the marina, where we see some nice boats but not the super yachts I have heard about.  We have asked a number of people where these super yachts are, but we are never able to find them.

the marina with Marina Mall behind it

Then we go into the sprawling Marina Mall and I have to say I’m disappointed.  Everyone has told me there is great shopping in Abu Dhabi, but I don’t see any stores different than what I have found in Muscat City Center.  The mall in fact doesn’t look that much different inside than Muscat City Center.

boats in the Abu Dhabi marina

We have another day here tomorrow, but I have no idea what we will do except go to see Emirates Palace and go on a desert safari in the late afternoon.  I’m afraid we’ve done most of what there is to do in this city in one day.

the Marina Mall and marina

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out and about in abu dhabi

Thursday, November 15:  Riding around on The Big Bus Abu Dhabi, we see quite a variety of architecture and interesting sights.

We are saving Emirates Palace for tomorrow, so this is just a passing glimpse.  More photos will be forthcoming. We find the Iranian souq very disappointing, as vendors sell mostly plastic housewares you can buy at any Lulu Hypermarket or Carrefour.  The Central Market Souq, which we thought would be a traditional souq, is actually a modern and high-class shopping mall, with beautiful woodwork inside and out.  We find some interesting sculptures near the Central Market Souq, contained within a median strip “park,” but they look neglected and shabby.  However, these sculptures do provide some interesting subject matter for photos.

Here is a gallery of what we see… (Click on any of the photos below for a full-sized slide show).

a mosque near the Central Marked souq in the midst of modernity

more interesting sculptures, looking slightly shabby

I dream of genies

Emirates Palace

interesting sculptures in the median strip

another mosque near the Central Market souq, dwarfed by skyscrapers

the entrance to the Central Market Souq (another name for a shopping mall)…

textiles at the Iranian souq

residential court across from Emirates Palace

fountain and streets of the city

what I want to buy but can’t afford at the Iranian souq

sign to City Center

mirrored windows on skyscrapers

more modern skyscrapers

modern and super-modern

interesting towers along the road

the sheikh zayed bin sultan al-nahyan mosque in abu dhabi

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Abu Dhabi, Travel, United Arab Emirates

Thursday, November 15:  After driving over 5 hours last night from Nizwa and checking in at the Centro Al Manhal Hotel in Abu Dhabi, my friend Tony and I are ready to begin our exploration of the city bright and early.  Immediately after an excellent breakfast at the hotel, we head to the Marina Mall, where we catch the Big Bus Tours Abu Dhabi.  I am usually keen to do these tours, if they are available, whenever I arrive in a new city.  It helps me get a feel for the layout of the city and what there is to see.

Big Bus Tours Abu Dhabi

Sitting on the top deck of the bus, we drive past the Emirates Palace Hotel and then cruise slowly down the long Sultan Bin Zayed Street until we get to the Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque, also known as the Grand Mosque, where we disembark.  This is the largest mosque in the United Arab Emirates and the 8th largest mosque in the world.   The mosque can accommodate 40,000 people, and often reaches that capacity or more during Eid.

me and the Grand Mosque

the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi

The pools along the arcades reflect the mosque’s spectacular columns and add yet another dimension to the overall design.

turning the corner toward the mosque entrance, fronted by reflecting pools

arches, domes and reflecting pools

I love the lines of arches reflected in the blue tiled pool… 🙂

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque’s design and construction used artisans and materials from a multitude of countries including Italy, Germany, Morocco, Pakistan, India, Turkey, Malaysia, Iran, China, United Kingdom, New Zealand, Greece and United Arab Emirates. More than 3,000 workers and 38 contracting companies took part in the construction of the mosque. Natural materials were chosen for much of its design and construction due to their long-lasting qualities, including gold, marble, semi-precious stones, crystals and ceramics.

the entrance to the Grand Mosque

fountains in front of the entrance

looking back out over the reflecting pools

Non-Muslims are invited to explore on their own, and tours are also available.  This is unique as many mosques don’t allow non-Muslims to enter.  However, in order to enter, men and women must be dressed modestly.  Women are given an abaya (full-length black robe) and a shayla (headscarf).  All people must remove their shoes before entering.

entering the courtyard, women in abayas

the ornate door into the main prayer hall

one of the chandeliers and the intricately carved ceiling

my bare feet under an abaya on the marble mosaic floor

me inside the main prayer hall, in an abaya provided by the mosque

The world’s largest Persian carpet covers the main prayer hall in a lush green floral design.  It is said to have taken 2,000 workers two years to complete.  The carpet weighs 35 tons and is made of New Zealand and Iranian wool. It has over 2 billion knots.

the foliage-covered carpet, the largest in the world, inside the main prayer hall

the carpet of 2 billion knots

Seven gold-plated Swarovski crystal chandeliers imported from Germany hang from the ceiling; we think several of them look like Christmas trees with their reds, greens and golds.

one of the large chandeliers in the main prayer hall

chandelier within a dome, surrounded by arches

arches and arches

intricately designed doors and windows

The courtyard, with its floral design, is considered to be the largest example of marble mosaic in the world.

a corner of the courtyard

The mosque showcases 80 marble domes, held up by over 1,000 pillars. Inspired by both Mughal and Moorish mosque architecture, its minarets are classically Arab while its archways are Moorish.

columns and columns

the Grand Mosque with its multitude of domes

After all is said and done, visiting this gorgeous mosque is definitely the highlight of our trip to Abu Dhabi.

departing view of the Grand Mosque