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Friday, November 9: I hiked this ancient donkey path before, in March of this year, on a much hotter day than today (the balcony walk at jebel shams). On that day, eight months ago, I never made it to the abandoned village of As Sab.
Today we make it.
This time, it’s Mario, Sultan and me. We drive over an hour on windy roads, some paved, some not, from Nizwa, beginning at 8:30 a.m. At 10:00 we begin our hike. The weather is crisp and breezy atop Jebel Shams, possibly 25 degrees Celsius, highly unusual for Oman. Not a single cloud is evident, but a heavy haze blurs the air. The views are stupendous, looking over the precipice into Wadi An Nakhur, “The Grand Canyon” of Oman. We walk mostly downhill from Al Khitaym (altitude 1,900 meters), along the west flank of the canyon. It takes us 2 1/2 hours to reach the abandoned village of As Sab because it’s slow going downhill. We stop for photos, exclaiming over the view. With the sheer drop-offs along both sides of the gorge, the path ahead looks treacherous, but once we come upon the spots we see from afar, we find the dangerous looking trail is an optical illusion. It’s actually relatively easy-going. And not as scary as it looks.
We finally reach the abandoned village of As Sab. This village, formerly known as Sab Bani Khamis, was home at one time to about 15 families. It was well-protected against enemies and had a good supply of water. The houses, which remain in dilapidated condition, were built primarily of stone. Local woods include spina christi, juniper, acacia, and olive. The crops produced on terraces on the mountainside included watermelon, onion, chili pepper, tomato, wheat, pomegranate, lemon and basil. The families also had livestock herds, including goats, sheep and donkeys. I don’t know the date the village was abandoned but, according to Explorer Oman Trekking, the former inhabitants now live in Wadi Ghul, a village at the bottom of the wadi, and Al Hamra, a larger village about 37 km away.
After poking around in the village, Mario and Sultan build a cairn (a man-made stack of stones) to mark that we were here. We’ve passed literally hundreds of other cairns along the Balcony Walk.
We check out the stone houses, the terraces, the rock overhang, and the little goats wandering around in the village. It’s difficult to imagine people actually farming on these steep & narrow terraces.
We have a plan to eat lunch at the Jebel Shams Motel. They stop serving lunch at 3:00, and it’s 12:30. We figure we better hurry to make it there in time. The return trip is all uphill. Believe it or not, though it took us 2 1/2 hours to get to As Sab, we make it back to the start in 1 1/2 hours. The guys have left me in the dust most of the way, and I find myself constantly gasping for breath. I don’t remember it being so steep on the way down!! Every muscle in my body is aching and my knees are killing me. I have on new hiking boots and sharp pins and needles are stabbing my toes. What’s the deal with that?
Finally, we have a mediocre lunch at the hotel; we are famished so it doesn’t matter that it’s nondescript. We drink fresh-ground coffee at a picnic table in the middle of the hotel grounds. On our drive back to Nizwa, Mario and I chat about the university and all our frustrations while Sultan takes a nap in the backseat. At my flat in Nizwa, we hang out many more hours, drinking wine, laughing, eating cheese and crackers, and simply enjoying each others’ company.
Since I returned to Oman, I’ve felt very depressed about being here for another year. But today is a happy day. I feel content and alive. I love it when the weather is nice enough to get outdoors for a vigorous and scenic walk, when I’m in the company of fun, lively, and dear, friends, and when I’m energized with exercise and exploration.
Oh happy day. 🙂
Playamart - Zeebra Designs said:
“Oh happy day!’ you put a lot of work into this post! it feels good to be back with a bit of catch-up time! great post, z
catbirdinoman said:
Thanks so much Z! It was a fun adventure, the first one I’ve had since I returned to Oman in September. (Other than my trip to Ethiopia…. http://catbirdinafrica.wordpress.com/ )
vastlycurious.com said:
What a beautiful tour- thank you!
catbirdinoman said:
I’m glad you enjoyed it! Come along next time too!
vastlycurious.com said:
I would in a second!!
Vee Martin (@veggievee) said:
We did this the easy way, whilst on holiday, and looked at the terraces from the top of the canyon, observing the trekkers below. It was therefore interesting to see your photos of the abandoned village.
catbirdinoman said:
I hope you enjoyed your holiday in Oman Vee! How long were you here, and when? What was your favorite thing?
adinparadise said:
Well I’m so glad you told me that it’s not as dangerous as it looks. 😀 That must have been quite an adventure though. I’m glad to notice that you weren’t wearing your usual sandals. 🙂 What breathtaking views, and I love the goat’s face. I’m so glad it was such a happy day for you, Cathy.
catbirdinoman said:
Haha, yes, Sylvia, I had to pull out my tough hiking shoes for this one. I love all the little goats we saw. They’re so interested when we humans come into their territory. They don’t budge, just sit and look at us as if we’re some curious specimens. It was an amazing day, great views and great company. Thanks so much for being glad for me! I’ve had a rough time since I’ve been back in Oman. I really am counting the days till I can go home…. 🙂
adinparadise said:
Yes, I sensed that you aren’t a happy camper, Cathy.
catbirdinoman said:
You’re kind and sweet to care and notice!! I think my mood will improve with the better weather. Once I can get outside and walk and explore, I’m much happier!!
Carol said:
I admire your energy – for me, the countryside is just too brown, dry and hot. But very interesting – I cannot imagine living in a village like that, and it does not look like any vegetation that would be edible for humans would survive there. I guess it’s all in knowing how to deal with your environment. When you leave, will you stay in the states for awhile, or head out on another adventure in a new land?
catbirdinoman said:
Yes, Carol, I agree. I feel the same about the landscape here. But while I’m here, I’m trying to experience it to the fullest, because once I leave, I won’t come back to the Gulf. Like one of my colleagues always says to me when I’m down and out, or complaining about something: “Embrace it!!” Haha! When I leave, I plan to stay put in the States for a while. At least a year. I already have a job lined up for next fall. Who knows how long before my wanderlust kicks back in. For some reason, I’m being pulled by China/Hong Kong. But maybe I’ll just stay put and explore America again, both North and South. I’ve never been to South America!!
Robin said:
Wow! What an amazing hike. I’d love to be able to explore the village, although it does look like a pretty scary hike. I’ll take your word for it that it’s not. 🙂
catbirdinoman said:
Thanks Robin! The whole day was a big slice of happiness in my life, something I really needed since I returned to Oman. I think, like you, that if I can get out walking, I am happiest. The problem is that it’s just too darn hot here for most of the year. You’ll see a lot more walks from me from now till February, after which time it will become too hot again. Thanks so much for your inspiration!
ruthincolorado said:
The scenery is very reminiscent of the Grand Canyon and some canyons in Utah. I would love to explore this area but will probably never make it there, so thanks for sharing! I’m glad you had a good day…and keep in mind that a year will pass quickly. 😉
catbirdinoman said:
Thanks Ruth! I have been to Colorado and stood at the rim of the Grand Canyon, but I never hiked it. Someday I want to do just that. I have never explored the canyons of Utah either. So, when I return to the US late next summer, I will definitely start planning some trips out west!!
Alex said:
Hi Cathy,
My wife and me will be in Oman shortly and we would like to do the balcony walk as well. Having just a 2WD and reading contradicting information about the condition of the road up to Jebel Shams Motel I would like to ask you what you think about the road. Is it a problem to go to the Motel with a small 2WD rental car? Is it a problem to go with the 2WD to Al Khitaym?
Thanks for your help,
Alex
catbirdinoman said:
Hi Alex, there are no restrictions on what kind of vehicle you can take up Jebel Shams, unlike Jebel Akhdar where there is a police checkpoint at the bottom. However, some of the road is unpaved and quite bumpy. You can take a 2WD car up, but I think in those sections you just have to drive slowly and carefully. Let me know how you enjoy Oman!! When do you arrive?
Alex said:
Thanks a lot for your reply – it is very helpful and we will do the balcony walk now for sure.
We will arrive in Muscat on Nov. 23rd and will go south along the coast (with an overnight stay at one of the Wahiba Sands desert camps) till Masirah island and then back up north to Nizwa for a bit of mountain fun. The last 2 or 3 days we will go to Sawadi for the beach to relax.
I have some more questions if you dont mind – I hope I am not annoying.
Can you recommend a budget accomodation in Nizwa? Also as you live already for some time in Nizwa, what are your favourite restaurants?
From your blog and other sources I know that you really should not go with a 2WD to the snake gorge from Nizwa. However, what about the road from Rustaq? You write that “the road reaches the valley floor and flattens out for the remainder of the way”.
One last question 😉 which of the following wadis do you like best: wadi Tiwi, wadi Shab or wadi Bani Khalid.
Looking forward hearing from you.
Alex
catbirdinoman said:
Hmmm, budget accomodation in Nizwa?? I’m not sure you want budget anything in Oman. The Falaj Daris and the Golden Tulip are the best places in town, not really budget, but I wouldn’t want to stay anywhere else. I suppose you could try the Al Diyar. Actually, there is a cute bed and breakfast in Misfat Al Abriyyen, a cute village in its own right, #99412660. It’s not too far from Nizwa, maybe about 20 miles. You might enjoy that better than anything in Nizwa. And of course on top of Jebel Akhdar, I think there is the Jebel Akhdar Hotel, but you need a 4wd to go there. And it’s not budget.
As far as favorite restaurants in Nizwa, there used to be 3 but now the Spicy Village has closed and there are now only 2. Peppercorns is the only nice place in town, and the Turkish restaurant has decent food but you sit on plastic chairs in a parking lot!
I think it will be difficult to get to Snake Canyon from either direction without a 4WD. The road is flat some of the way, but still very rough. Also, I think you start the canyon trek at the end nearest Balad Sayt, which you have to go over mountains to get to. Maybe you could hire a 4WD and guide for the day. It’s also quite dangerous, from what I hear, and you should probably hire a guide. I haven’t done it and don’t think I plan to.
All 3 of those wadis have their attractions and drawbacks. Wadi Bani Khalid is usually crowded and a little commercial. I think honestly it’s my least favorite. Wadi Tiwi is beautiful, but mainly for a drive. You don’t need 4 WD for it, but there are some rough spots and you don’t want to go on a crowded weekend b/c the road is very narrow in spots, allowing only one car through at a time. I’ve been caught in traffic jams up there. I’d have to say Wadi Shab is my favorite but give yourself plenty of time. You must walk quite a distance back into the wadi (an hour and a half), then dip down to the water. There you wade and then swim back until you see a cave with a little hole for just your head at the bottom. Swim through it and it’s beautiful.
Give me a call when you arrive if you’d like to meet while in Nizwa. My number is 97211635. Have a great time!
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dearrosie said:
What a fascinating post. I’m so glad I followed the link from Robin’s blog. I don’t know anything about Oman so of course didn’t know there was a Grand Canyon. Your pictures and descriptions are great 🙂
I’m also a walker. I hike around the hills of my southern Californian neighborhood and this past summer I walked the Camino in Spain..
catbirdinoman said:
I see you love to walk, dearrosie. And interesting that you have lived in so many different countries too! I bet your walks around southern California are beautiful. It’s hard to find an ugly place in California! I’m really interested in hearing about your walk of the Camino in Spain. Is it included in your blog? I would love to do that myself, but I’d have to get in a lot better shape to carry a backpack all that way. I just watched “The Way” and was really inspired!!
dearrosie said:
At the top of my blog next to the “About” is a link “Travels”. You’ll find my posts on the Camino over there.
I’ve never carried a backpack before and had to get used to it but hey if I can do it I’m sure you could too.
catbirdinoman said:
Ok, I will check this out Rosie! Thanks for sharing. I can’t wait to read about your experience!
Sallyann said:
Wow !
I climbed Showdown recently and could hardly walk for a day or two after it. This looks like it was a wonderful walk, thanks for sharing it with the comfort of my armchair. 🙂
Thanks also got stopping by my blog, call again anytime. 🙂
catbirdinoman said:
You’re welcome Sallyann, it was great to visit. I know, sometimes it feels perfectly fine to share a walk from the comfort of your armchair! 🙂
Madhu said:
Sounds like a tough hike. But the views are spectacular! This makes me want to visit Oman even more than before Cathy 🙂
catbirdinoman said:
Well, if you come, look me up for sure! Unless it’s after the summer, because I’ll be gone after that!!
travelerlynne said:
What a great day trip…educational, challenging and with special friends.Hope you can do more of these special outings. Will help pass the time for you in a positive way. Amazing place and photos depicting a way of live that looked Biblical.
catbirdinoman said:
Thanks Lynne. It was a really great day, just to get outdoors and walk (only now is it cool enough to do this!) and especially with such great friends!
Tahira said:
Wow! This is a hikers paradise! Would I ever love to hike this. Thank you for taking me on this little *hike*. And it looks like you had a great time 🙂
catbirdinoman said:
Come over to Oman for a visit and go on the hike! You’d love it!
Tahira said:
Thanks, Cathy. I am definitely putting it on my list!
catbirdinoman said:
Ok, let me know when you come!
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